I blame the seemingly-cute Keebler elves, who flit about holding cute little bows and arrows to people heads forcing them to eat cookies they don't want. And (of course!) we all blame Evil Corporations, because we all know there isn't a mom-and-pop bakery, or a mom, or a pop, or a grandma anywhere that adds sugar, salt and butter to their recipes to make them more appealing.
And do let me add: Mr. Bittman seems to be worried about the moral fiber of the Great Unwashed, rather than his own. His lead:
In the last few years, it’s become increasingly clear that food companies engineer hyperprocessed foods in ways precisely geared to most appeal to our tastes.
"Our tastes"? We are not talking about food that Mr. Bittman talks up. And a bit later:
The problems are clear, but grouping these industries gives us a better way to look at the struggle of consumers, of ordinary people, to regain the upper hand.
Ahh, we are talking about "ordinary people", not NY Times columnnists with their vast education and resources. They won't listen to him, darn it, but maybe if he bloviates with sufficient urgency we can pass a law. Maybe!